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COLOMBIA: FROM BACKPACKERS TO BOUTIQUE HOTELS

"Wonderfully welcoming by day, full of energy & a sultry poise at night." Travel Counsellors Australia's Managing Director, Fred Van Eijk, tempts us to experience a developing South American treasure, Colombia.

“Wonderfully welcoming by day, full of energy & a sultry poise at night.” Travel Counsellors Australia’s Managing Director, Fred Van Eijk, tempts us to experience a developing South American treasure, Colombia.

A city that exudes history, is gifted with many beaches and wonderful islands nearby; serving as the ideal starting point to discovering the many sides of Colombia.

Sparked your curiosity?

Don’t hesitate to book a sensational stay in Cartagena.

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A city as ideal for backpackers as boutique hotel aficionados. A city that will serve the comfort seeking traveller with a stay in a ‘casa’. A city that no matter what type of traveller the same advice counts: be prepared for your journey, brush up on your Spanish and understand that much like the rest of the country, tourism in Colombia is in its development phase. Most importantly be prepared for the thrill of discovery. I went ahead and did some discovering myself, collecting enough tips to inspire your trip.

The historic walled city of Cartagena, dating back to the 16th century, is exquisite to say the least. The narrow streets still breathe the same local spirit of that century. Many of the grand colonial houses have been turned into unique boutique and design hotels, designer shops, restaurants and cocktail bars. This stunning revival has managed to keep the Colombian character intact.

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During the day, you’ll find yourself strolling around its vibrant streets and eating fresh fruit off trolleys. You may buy a cigar, or get yourself a traditional hat and chat with the wonderful locals. As the sun goes down you’ll find yourself in the city’s buzzing nightlife; from salsa dancing to enjoying the bar and club scene. As icing on the cake – or should we say: guacamole on the taco – there are seemingly endless beaches, such as Playa Blanca. For the ultimate beach experience, you could hop on a speedboat to the Rosario-islands which is how we booked a daytrip to the Paradise of San Pedro de Majagua, on the island Isla Grande.

During the day, Cartagena is wonderfully welcoming and charming, after dusk it is full of energy and a sultry poise. If you’re looking to turn up the heat a little more, spend your night in Café Havana. The salsa dancing visitors are sensually stuck together whilst the musicians play them intoxicating tunes and the barmen mix up delicious Mojito’s. You’ll probably need a good cup of coffee the next morning. Find your way to Epoca, a hip coffee bar with the best roasted Colombian coffee.

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Find your way to Epoca, a hip coffee bar with the best roasted Colombian coffee.

Make sure to leave one night free for La Cocina de Pepina; an adored local restaurant with only eight wooden tables, worth the somewhat longer wait. The restaurant was founded by one of the most important Colombian chefs, María Josefina Yances Guerra. Now run by her nephew, the local hotspot still revolves around his aunt’s quest of honouring traditional Colombian food. Among other delicious dishes you’ll find Caribbean soups and Ceviche (raw fish dish) on the menu. The Colombian writer Gabríel Garcia Márquez was a regular guest and his portrait decorates the wall.

You can find Café Havana and La Cocina de Pepina in the old neighborhood Getsemani, walking distance from the walled city. Not long ago this neighborhood was dangerous and life-risking, now it’s blooming entirely and feels less polished than the walled city. Here you’ll find the most backpackers and hipsters. If you’d rather avoid the intensity of Café Havana, try sipping on cocktails and wonderful nibbles in Demente, a trendsetting bar close by in Guerrero Street. In the same street, you will also bump into the design hotel Casa Lola, a match made in interior heaven for people passionate about interior design and unique overnight stays.

Stay at the design hotel, Casa Lola, if you're passionate about interior design and unique overnight stays.

Stay at the design hotel, Casa Lola, if you’re passionate about interior design and unique overnight stays.

Within this walled city I stayed in Hotel Ananda. It’s designed with a calm sensibility boasting 23 spacious rooms, a delightful atmosphere and good service. If you’re looking for something a bit larger, then I’d advise staying in the Sofitel Santa Clara, situated in an old convent. If you’re on a budget, then opt for Casa India Catalina or the hotel 3 Banderas.

 

Island trips

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The Rosario-island are simply an unmissable experience in your Cartagena stay. Try to stay overnight to fully indulge yourself in relaxation. I managed to do exactly that by staying in the San Pedro de Ajagua hotel on the Isla Grande. Taking some extra time to discover the Caribbean coast of Colombia is not a bad way to spend your time either. From Cartagena, it’s just a four-hour drive to Santa Marta, one of the oldest colonial cities of this part of the world. Especially in the evening, this city is a delight to discover. Delicious dining can be done at Lulo and Ouzo, take a seat at a table on the terrace and get the local street-feeling and character for free.

 

Road trips

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Just one hour onwards from Santa Marta you will find the Tayrona National Park, coined by many as Colombia’s most beautiful area with picture-perfect beaches and luscious nature complete with rivers, forests and rugged shores. Earning the spot as the most beautiful area of Colombia has made it a tourist favourite, so don’t be surprised if it’s busy.

Another one-hour drive from Santa Marta lies the mountain village Minca, as high as 660 meters. Here its visitors will stay in the uncountable number of hostels. If you’d rather stay somewhere with more comfort, book a room in Ecohab and stay the night in a room built in the trees. Minca offers many possibilities for those active types: mountain biking, hiking, bird spotting, hanging out in the river and cooling off in the waterfalls of Pozo Azul. The coffee plantations are also a popular place to visit, Victoria Coffee Farm is a great option for this. Rebooting after all those adventures can be done at Café Minca.

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Half an hour drive away from Tayrona you can find Palomino, a fisherman’s village that has been revived by hippies and backpackers by means of modern hostels, casa’s and eco lodges. It’s hard not to get swept up by its relaxed state-of-mind. The pearly white beaches complete this paradise. The sea is quite rough, which doesn’t seem to stop any of the surfers. Swimming is often ill-advised and when the red flag hangs it is even forbidden.

Cartagena is unique and remarkably full of life. A perfect blend of history, culture, comfort, design and authenticity with good food, nightlife, beaches and many options to discover other places. It is a splendid city to treat yourself to and the perfect place to stay for inspiring daytrips to tropical islands and to spend a few more days discovering the rest of Colombia. I feel honoured to have shared this wonderful experience of mine and hope many travel troopers will follow my way. Buen Viajes!

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