If adventure is what Vanuatu tourism authorities are marketing – and that is their stated aim – Tanna Island could be its poster child. Absent in Tanna are the golden sand beaches of Espiritu Santo or the luxury resorts of Port Vila and surrounds; instead, visitors who make the trek to Tanna – a 40-minute flight from the capital – are rewarded with exciting experiences, both anticipated and unannounced. After a recent trip to Vanuatu, MARK HARADA outlines six things that should thrill every visitor to the island.
Blue Cave
The Blue Hole in Espiritu Santo may be more well-known, but Tanna’s Blue Cave is arguably more beautiful.
To get there, we ride by boat for around 45 minutes from the nearest resort, jump off and then swim up to and under a rock face.
The cave wouldn’t be easy for young children or shaky swimmers to access, but rewards visitors with a truly spectacular place in which to swim or just sit and take in the cathedral-like beauty.
A gap at the top of the cave (a little like Rome’s Pantheon) illuminates the space to stunning effect.
Whale-watching
Sometimes the most memorable experiences are the least planned.
As our small boat darts across the waters just off Tanna bound for Blue Cave, our boatman catches sight of something large lurking in the water a short distance away and shifts course. What had been just a glimpse a few moments ago, quickly looms large: two frolicking humpback whales.
Whales are a common sight off Tanna Island. But to see a pair breaching this close is a sight even the local boatman appreciates.
On our return trip from the cave, we stumble across a mother humpback and her calf, who glide past right beneath our boat.
Mount Yasur
It takes around 1.5 hours to drive from the airport (and the few resorts on the island) to Mt Yasur by 4WD – and more than half of that time is spent navigating something that only vaguely resembles a road.
But whether or not Mt Yasur is actually the world’s most accessible volcano – as Vanuatu bills it – matters not once you arrive.
Just before we reach the final stretch of the drive up to Yasur, we encounter a vast, barren, almost lunar landscape, covered in ash. With Yasur bellowing every few minutes in the background, it’s a truly surreal sight.
But nothing can prepare you for the experience of actually standing at the rim of the crater, where an eery silence is broken by an upward roar of magma, smoke and noise every few minutes.
A trip to Yasur is truly an assault on all of your senses. But arrive at dusk to appreciate the volcano in light and darkness. Visit Tanna Volcano Safari Tours for more information.
Imaio Village
While some cultural village experiences are contrived, the experience at Imaio seems as genuine as you’re likely to get.
For one, Imaio is indeed a living village, tucked away in a forest in the shadow of Yasur. On our way in kids pause a game of volleyball to wave at us. They do the same as we leave.
In between, we’re treated to songs, a dance performed at cultural events (like marriages) called napen napen, and demonstrations on how to create fire and even build a stretcher out of wild kava leaves.
A village this remote couldn’t exist for tourists. But villager, and Vanuatu Tourism Council chair for Tafea province, Daniel Ihai tells me the hamlet once saw many visitors and would welcome more back. If you’re making your way to Mt Yasur, a stop at Imaio is worth it.
Giant banyan tree
Our tour guide Jeremy tells us we’re in the presence of the largest Banyan tree in the Pacific. And I’m inclined to believe him, given the sheer breadth of this giant tree, which must measure something like 30 metres (though it is hard to tell given the sheer number of aerial roots around us).
Though no one knows how old this tree exactly is (Jeremy guesses around 300-400 years), the banyan forms an integral part of village life, a place where chiefs hold meetings and drink kava, and children play within its branches.
The banyan is located about 15 minutes off Tanna’s main road and then a short downhill walk from the road’s tiny offshoot. And the visit is worth the bumpy ride.
Rockwater Resort
There are only a handful of real resorts on Tanna Island – and Rockwater would have to be the pick of the bunch.
Rockwater literally combines rock elements – inside the rooms and around the property – and water features (like its pool and waterfall) for a stunning effect.
Much of the produce it serves is grown onsite, while it’s also off-grid, so sustainability here isn’t just a buzzword.
Perched above the ocean, Rockwater is the creation of New Caledonia-born, former Australian resident John Nicholls and his partner Sylvana. Sit down with John – and you likely will, given the intimacy of the resort – and you’ll be in for a yarn. Stay at the resort, and you’ll have a yarn to tell.
The writer travelled to Vanuatu as a guest of the Vanuatu Tourism Office.
