There’s something thrilling about your first glimpse of The Ghan. Familiar and yet unknown, the bold red engine indicative of adventure and possibility. It’s as ‘Australiana’ as a train can get. Joining 11 travel agents on Journey Beyond’s first Beyonder mega famil, Zoe Macfarlane reviews Gold Premium aboard The Ghan Expedition from Darwin to Adelaide.
After writing editorials about Australia’s most legendary rail journey for years, I knew what to expect as we drove to Darwin’s Berrimah Terminal. Or at least, I thought I did.
I wasn’t prepared, however, for how well The Ghan’s new Gold Premium carriages had been thoughtfully reimagined for someone just like me.
The leather detailing, sandstone hues, and subtly luxurious finishes have transformed this heritage railway journey into something that could live on your Pinterest board for your future dream home. Stylish, earthy, and liveable, something I thought only those tiny home fanatics would say.
While The Ghan has always been Australia’s most iconic rail journey, Gold Premium felt like an expansion of that story.
It’s no longer the sole domain of retirees ticking off a bucket list. It’s a place for design-conscious travellers, curious foodies, and anyone who’s ever dreamed of riding through the heart of the Lucky Country in absolute style.
Cabin life
From the moment I stepped into my cabin, I felt more explorer than passenger. The leather-bound welcome folder hinted at the explorations ahead, and unpacking my carry-on items into the clever storage spaces made me feel like an adventure was afoot. And it was.
The taupe couch-turned-bed had just the right amount of support for a four-day-long journey, with the well-positioned headrest Goldilocks-perfect to watch the ever-changing landscape in comfort.
As someone who sleeps in a tiny corner of any bed, the narrow width suited me perfectly. The mattress is comfortable, both for sleep, and for my new Ghan obsession: flipping onto my stomach at sunrise to wake with Australia’s desert sky.
And the bathroom? Good as gold! The curtain pulls around to give you most of the space without saturating everything. Full-size LaGaia toiletries allow passengers to leave their supplies in their main (stowed) luggage without worry.
Shared spaces
Gold Premium’s wooden-panelled corridors evoked a nostalgia for my grandfather who converted old railway carriages into a family home. It felt homely. Safe. A cocoon.
I enjoyed the separation of Gold Premium’s stylish lounge and dining area. Our group of 16 shared four booth-style tables for meals, then relaxed in the lounge with barista coffees, creative cocktails, and countless rounds of Uno. The open seating and communal dining made it easy to strike up conversations with fellow passengers, ideal if travelling solo.
No matter where aboard The Ghan, the staff were exceptional. Friendly, attentive, and always quick to supply a snack, drink, or regional fact. Trust me when I say you do not go hungry here.
The lack of Wi-Fi and cell service enhances the opportunity to connect, and it’s magical. I’d already enjoyed less connectivity at Seven Spirit Bay (read my review here), however, that required restraint. On The Ghan, besides the odd burst of spotty cell service as we passed a big town, it was as if we hit pause on the rest of the world.
Every taste a sensation
Attention to detail is Journey Beyond’s superpower. This is evident in every corner, but particularly when dining. Every meal is beautifully presented with pretty watercolour menus revealing gourmet multi-course offerings.
This isn’t just food, it’s a flavour trail through Australia: moreish crocodile dumplings, tender buffalo curry, saltwater barramundi, and rich desserts worthy of their own article.
Dietaries were handled with care. The chef made a much-appreciated personal visit to my cabin to run through adaptations. He noted a rise in intolerances and allergies of late, and The Ghan’s ability to cater to them.
Lunches are off-train, with decadent packs prepared with Australian goodies, from plump wraps to wattle seed popcorn and raspberry sweet treats.
Off Train Experiences
Plot twist: on The Ghan Expedition, time aboard the train is limited. I bought a puzzle book, journal, and downloaded shows – and needed none of it because Australia was waiting!
Within hours of departure, we disembarked for a serene Nitmiluk Gorge cruise in Katherine. It was one of four included options, with an upgrade available to chopper over the gorge.
Back in Darwin, our three Beyonder pre-Ghan fam trips grouped aboard a sunset cruise where Journey Beyond Rail’s Bradley Campbell informed us of our first wow-worthy surprise: a scenic flight over Uluru and Kata Tjuta and a ground tour! It’s not called a mega fam for nothing.
While other Ghan guests took off to Simpsons Gap in the West MacDonnell Ranges or Alice Spring’s Desert Park, we took to the skies, and it was thrilling! The geometric alignment of Mt Conner, Uluru, and Kata Tjuta from the air is a visual that will live in my soul forever.
A spectacular dinner under a blanket of stars at Alice Springs Telegraph Station rounded out the day beautifully. Excited conversations mingled with the sound of a blacksmith at work in a heritage forge.
A humorous astronomy talk from nearby Earth Sky Sanctuary followed a sumptuous seasonal meal served with impeccable service. It was the refuel we needed to hit the dusty dance floor as the band played Aussie classics.
On day three, we arrived at Manguri, only 40 kilometres from Coober Pedy. I’d been dreaming of exploring Coober Pedy’s underground living quarters… until Journey Beyond offered another surprise-and-delight upgrade: a scenic flight over the Painted Hills and Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, with an Outback pub lunch in William Creek.
A 100% first-world dilemma, I admit; I went with my love of geological wonders and took to the skies.
Our pilot-guide Riley was an absolute legend – knowledgeable, passionate, and a stellar navigator. We soared over the vivid ranges before landing in the Painted Hills Mars-like terrain.
I stepped away from the group to sit in silence in a place few ever visit. As I connected to the quiet thrum of this ancient land, I felt a deep love for Australia’s sacred heartbeat, grateful for this moment in time.
The natural phenomenon was not over as we soared over Lake Eyre, partially filled from inland floods. Its size too vast to comprehend, saltwater plains extended far into the distance. Lake Eyre only fills a few times a century, and we bore witness to its onset.
The journey beyond
This kind of experience doesn’t end on the platform. It stays with you.
The way the sunrise glowed orange against desert plants. The hum of meal-time conversations and laughter, where strangers become friends. The smiles of the staff, the cocoon of the cabin, the native delicacy melting on your tongue.
This land, this train – it slows you down enough to feel again. And Gold Premium? It’s the perfect place – and pace – to remember how to be present, to connect, and to be in awe of all Australia gifts us.
