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Charmed: touring New Zealand’s Southern Way

If you told me castles, curling, Ferraris, and whales would be on my 2025 travel bingo card, I wouldn’t flinch. The joys of travel writing! If you told me they’d be on ONE trip, and that trip would only be four days, I’d think you were having a laugh. Cue Karryon’s invitation to tour the Southern Way in Aotearoa New Zealand’s South Island.  

If you told me castles, curling, Ferraris, and whales would be on my 2025 travel bingo card, I wouldn’t flinch. The joys of travel writing! If you told me they’d be on ONE trip, and that trip would only be four days, I’d think you were having a laugh. Cue Karryon’s invitation to tour the Southern Way in Aotearoa New Zealand’s South Island.  

One of the great things about self-driving scenic routes is that you get to make them your own. Love wildlife? Include it! Don’t like e-bike adventures? Don’t do one! Don’t want to switch AU to NZ time zones? No need, start as late as you like! This is especially true on the Southern Way.

A collaborative initiative from the South Island regions of Otago and Southland, Southern Way showcases the variety of experiences and scenic wonders waiting to be discovered across this stunning part of New Zealand.

With so much to see and do, I used ANZCRO’s four Southern Way tour packages as inspiration, requesting “penguins, stars, and nature” from Otago expert and Marketing Project Manager Sanae Herd.  

Boy, did she (and Otago) deliver!  

The new way to the Southern Way 

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Touring the Southern Way gives access to the Otago Central Rail Trail ©Zoe Macfarlane

While the Southern Way has been around for a couple of years, the new Jetstar Gold Coast to Dunedin route is the much-needed boost regional tourism craved (read about it here). 

As the much-hyped first international flight to Dunedin in five years, the new JQ service makes the journey effortless.

The Southern Way premise: fly into the Edinburgh of the South, depart from the Adventure Capital of the World.  

It’s a brilliant way to encourage Australians to venture beyond Queenstown, our favourite playground. I know this because despite 10 years in Auckland and five trips to Queenstown, I’d never made it to Dunedin or Otago.  

I was missing plenty. 

Dunedin: Penguins, albatross & whales, oh my 

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Dinner at Larnach Castle is a Dunedin highlight ©Zoe Macfarlane

The first 24 hours of the Southern Way had all the markings of a great road trip: standout accommodation, a decadent meal, and unforgettable wildlife encounters. 

Could you skip a visit to the Southern Hemisphere’s only castle? Sure. Should you? Absolutely not. 

While you can’t stay in the castle per se, the neighbouring Larnach Lodge echoes its old-world charms with exceptional views across Otago Harbour. And it’s only a minute’s walk to a delectable four-course Larnach Castle dinner paired with the best stories from the castle’s inception to now. 

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OPERA gives shelter to yellow-eyed hoiho penguins, like this juvenile ©Zoe Macfarlane

Dunedin’s wildlife rivals its Victorian architecture. While little blue penguins nest along the coastline, and the endangered yellow-eyed hoiho penguin is usually found further north, OPERA (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance) offers the rare possibility to see both.  

We arrived in time to witness a relaxed juvenile yellow-eyed penguin enjoying his final day in the rehab pool.  

Out on the coastal reserve, we learned of the eco reserve’s ambitious restoration plans, spotting an adorable little blue penguin in a purpose-built burrow, lounging seals, pretty guanaco (like alpacas) and rare Arapawa sheep as we toured. 

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Monarch’s 1-hour wildlife cruise includes the albatross colony at Taiaroa Heads ©Zoe Macfarlane

Then came the one-hour Monarch Wildlife Cruise to sight Dunedin’s other famous wildlife: Northern Royal albatross at the world’s largest albatross colony.  

As I boarded, I told the skipper, “I’ve ordered one of everything”. His joking retort? “Does it matter if the whale or penguin comes first?”.  

Little did we know, it was no joke, because within minutes of setting sail, seven southern right whales made their presence known! This is as uncommon as a 30-degree Dunedin day; southern rights are typically seen around New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic islands. 

As we oohed and aahed from afar, two whales decided we were the attraction, drifting with curiosity to the boat’s edge. It was one of the most incredible wildlife encounters of my life – and I was only a three-hour flight and one-hour drive from my Gold Coast home! 

The whales may have been the day’s unintended stars, but they couldn’t overshadow the majestic wingspan and soaring heights of the Northern Royal and Buller’s albatross. Expansive and elegant, they soared over fur seals, shags, and our Monarch cruise boat with grace. 

All this excitement, and I hadn’t even been in Dunedin 24 hours!  

Central Otago: internationally renowned 

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Exploring cute Naseby by e-bike with Big Sky Adventures ©Zoe Macfarlane

Would you have guessed New Zealand and Australia’s curling HQ (and only international curling rink) would be in Naseby, Central Otago? Unlikely. Population 130, this odd sport is in an odd location… and it’s an utterly brilliant road trip stop.  

More luck, we arrived at Maniototo Adventure Park during the national curling championships. It was fascinating to watch the frantic, backbreaking ‘sweeping’ moves to get a 22-kilogram granite curling stone from one end of an ice rink to the other. 

While I wouldn’t say it looked easy, I also wouldn’t have said it was the sporting equivalent of patting your head and rubbing your belly simultaneously.

Cue a humbling private curling lesson, organised our Big Sky Adventures host on our Naseby e-bike tour.  

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Zoe Macfarlane (L) & Sanae Herd (R) get their game faces on during a curling lesson ©Zoe Macfarlane

It’s not only curling that makes Central Otago globally renowned. Well, almost. The region’s International Dark Sky Community application is awaiting approval from the US; once confirmed, it’ll be a New Zealand first. 

The expansiveness and lack of light pollution are what attracted astro-photographer Paul Bishop to launch Naseby Night Sky Tours.  

While clouds meant we didn’t see the Milky Way through Bishop’s top-tier telescope, his rainy-day alternative – in partnership with our hosts at Inverlair Lodge – saw us snuggle under cosy blankets with ample snacks for an indoor version. Emulating the outdoor experience, Bishop’s brilliant night sky photographs became the stand in for the real deal.  

Clyde & Cromwell: curiously eclectic  

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I took the exhilarating Superfast Car Fast Dash around ©Highlands Motorsport Park

After a night in postcard-perfect Clyde (where the stars came out, hurrah) at the heritage-listed Lord Clyde, we made our way to Cromwell, famed for its fruit and wine-growing prowess. 

The classic giant fruit statue selfie is a must, as is a cheeky peek at the six themed Loos with a View at Highlands Motorsport Park.  

While the royal toilet and musical urinals are free, there are ample reasons to stay longer at this tourism hub. With a motor museum, mini golf, go-kart track, and racing adventures, it must be hard to leave after only loo pics.  

Fortunately, I didn’t need to find out, as I jumped into a Ferrari with a pro racing car driver for a Supercar Fast Dash around one of New Zealand’s premier circuits. What a rush.  

Also a rush: beating Sanae – by milliseconds – in go-karting!  

Queenstown: final bites & bright lights 

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LUMA Enchanted lights up Queenstown’s Kiwi Park this winter ©Zoe Macfarlane

With easy return access to Australia, Queenstown is a popular last stop on the Southern Way. Only 50 minutes from Cromwell, I squeezed in a Fergburger (of course), and dinner at Sunfire – hands down, the best steak of my life.  

My planned stargazing with AuthenticAs was thwarted by the weather (again!); however, a wander through LUMA Enchanted’s immersive light displays at Kiwi Park was a fitting, slightly surreal finale to a slightly surreal road trip.  

The Charming Way 

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The perfect Southern Way welcome with sunset over Otago Harvour from Larnach Lodge ©Zoe Macfarlane

By the end of the Southern Way, I’d rebranded it the Charming Way.

It’s not only the scenery, wildlife, and heritage towns that woo, but that famous southern hospitality. Tour hosts, lodge owners, restaurateurs, and more, are all genuinely eager to share stories, travel tips, and make your acquaintance.

The other charm? You get to shape the journey your way. With four recommended touring routes, plus ANZCRO’s ready-to-book Southern Way packages, there’s flexibility built in.  

Penguins and stars? Wines and mines? Thrills and chills? Take your pick on the Southern Way. Find out more here.

Read my Southern Way accommodation review here.