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HOTEL REVIEW: Southern Way stays, NZ

If you recently read about Zoe Macfarlane’s experiences touring the Southern Way, you’ll know that Otago offered more than epic wildlife, expansive vistas, and quirky attractions – it offered memorable accommodation, too. Discover how Southern Way stays add to the region’s charm.  

If you recently read about Zoe Macfarlane’s experiences touring the Southern Way, you’ll know that Otago offered more than epic wildlife, expansive vistas, and quirky attractions – it offered memorable accommodation, too. Discover how Southern Way stays add to the region’s charm.  

From an imposing mountaintop castle to a heritage-listed gold rush lodge, the Southern Way delivers truly individual places to rest your head between adventures. As I found out on a 4-day Southern Way road trip from Dunedin to Queenstown (read about it here).  

Larnach Castle Lodge, Dunedin 

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Deemed an ideal first night’s stay on the Southern Way ©Larnach Lodge

Perched on the Otago Peninsula with sweeping views of the harbour, Larnach Castle is an icon of Dunedin. Its Gothic Revival façade, painstakingly built in the late 19th century, is evocative of the Edinburgh of the South’s Scottish heritage and owner William Larnach’s passion project. 

While you can’t stay in New Zealand’s only castle, there are three accommodation offerings within its grounds: the budget-friendly Stable Grounds, Camp Estate, a luxury country house, and the 12-room Larnach Lodge, my home for the night.  

Lanarch Lodge channels the castle’s Victorian flair. Think tartan blankets, black sheepskin rugs, and wooden furnishings. The cosiness of the room was an ideal antidote to Dunedin’s winter chills.  

Every lodge room offers spectacular Otago Harbour views. Some have balcony access, perfect for the mellow sunset on arrival and the fieriest, most cinematic sunrise I’ve ever seen.  

Consider the optional four-course Larnach Castle Dinner Experience actually obligatory. Weaved between the sumptuous servings, our host Jess regaled our communal dining table with dramatic retellings of the castle’s highest highs and they-gave-it-all-away lows.  

I can’t think of a better place to start the Southern Way journey than at Larnach Castle. Jetstar’s mid-afternoon arrival time leaves ample time to enjoy the castle, grounds, room, and dinner, with easy access to the peninsula’s wildlife operators the next day.  

Inverlair Lodge, Oturehua 

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My family room view had spectacular Otago views ©Inverlair Lodge

Twenty kilometres from the curling-obsessed town of Naseby, Inverlair Lodge blends contemporary furnishing with countryside chic. A place with heart and hearth, this six-room property can host up to 16 guests, predominantly Otago Rail Trail cyclists, though all are welcome.  

Rooms are stylish and functional with comfortable bedding and modern en-suite bathrooms with underfloor heating. The bright, open-plan living and dining area has expansive golden field views as far as the eye can see.  

Rising at dawn, smart heating kept me toasty through the single-digit Central Otago winter temperatures. It felt positively balmy until I stepped outside to snap the postcard-perfect sunrise. Fortunately, a hearty cooked breakfast recalibrated my rookie mistake of being outdoors before the sun was fully up.  

Former Aucklanders-turned lodge owners Fleur and Roger McKinney go above and beyond, offering guests unexpected perks. The top two? A free ride to their favourite pub for dinner, plus the ultimate dark-sky experience with Paul Bishop from Naseby Night Sky Tours.  

The largest of Bishop’s telescopes permanently resides at Inverlair Lodge for the sharpest views of the galaxy. That, plus his in-depth knowledge and dark-cloud indoor presentation alternative, make this a compelling evening activity for Inverlair Lodge guests.   

The Lord Clyde, Clyde 

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Central, light, and oh-so-comfy, the Lord Clyde ©Zoe Macfarlane

Boutique comfort meets polished design at the Lord Clyde, a beautifully restored heritage property in the heart of one of Central Otago’s most charming towns.  

Located in the former Gold Rush town’s pretty heritage precinct, the comfort of this 120-year-old property perfectly balances the time spent leisurely wandering around Clyde’s (nee Dunston) historic buildings and quiet backstreets.  

With only nine rooms, the Lord Clyde offers intimacy and thoughtful details that elevate a winter stay: underfloor bathroom heating, a deep standalone bath, and bedding that enveloped me in the best sleep of the trip. The large, shuttered windows fill the room with natural light, adding to its charm. 

Breakfast is a simple affair: cereal, fruit, preserves, and the Lord Clyde’s signature baked eggs (not to be missed). Adjacent to the dining area, the cosy guest lounge looked ideal for rainy-day reading or for recovery after biking the nearby Lake Dunstan Trail.  

The Dairy Private Hotel, Queenstown 

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Bold boutique done right at Dairy Private by Naumi Hotels ©Zoe Macfarlane

If Vivienne Westwood and Laura Ashley had a hotel baby, it would be the Dairy Private Hotel. The eclectic mishmash of patterns, prints, and bold colours makes this converted 1920s corner store one of Queenstown’s most memorable stays. 

Only a few minutes’ walk from the heart of Queenstown (aka Fergburger), this 13-room boutique property – part of Naumi Hotels’ quirky collection – is a cosy, grown-up retreat with character – and a hot tub.  

You’re forgiven for thinking a former corner store might feel cramped when converted to a 13-room boutique property; however, my room felt generous in size, and the guest chill-out area is also ample.  

It’s not only character that the Dairy Private Hotel offers guests, but goodies in the form of in-room snacks, plus tea, coffee, soft drinks and oh-so-Kiwi lollies, like chocolate fish and Pineapple Lumps in the guest lounge. The popular evening happy hour makes for a social gathering perfect for guests to share their Queenstown highlights.  

For my last night’s accommodation, I can think of no better final note. The Dairy Private Hotel is central yet quiet, whimsically stylish, and effortlessly comfortable. All delivered with the southern hospitality I’d come to expect along the Southern Way (read more about that here).