What happens when old and new collide? Zoe Macfarlane finds out, travelling with HX Expeditions – the world’s oldest expedition company – on the newly refurbished MS Fram. Read on to discover how this classic-meets-contemporary vessel stacks up when exploring Svalbard.
HX Expeditions has been plying the world’s most remote destinations for 130 years. Following in the wake of polar greats like Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen, the pioneering travel company has forged a path for adventurous, curious, nature-minded travellers.
Named after the Norwegian vessel that helped prove Nansen’s polar-drift theory, MS Fram – fresh from a glow-up – is one of HX’s five purpose-built expedition ships.
In Svalbard, MS Fram is home to a maximum of 200 guests, and an average of 150. I was about to discover it’s an ideal size for efficient landings, friendly vibes, and a level of intimacy I would soon value as a solo traveller.
First impressions
Boarding a small ship is an expeditious affair. A short gangway walk and ID card scan, and I’m ‘home’ for the week, ready to explore Svalbard in the High Arctic.
As I made my way to my 6th-deck cabin, framed MS Fram memorabilia and bronze-etched artwork gave me a taste of the ship’s aesthetic. I’m calling it polar-old-world-meets-Scandi-modern.
The décor’s clean lines, warm tones, and tactile nods to Arctic heritage (reindeer hides, animal bones, maps) felt immersive. It was an early indicator that this was a trip where you’re encouraged to touch, enquire, and marvel.
The cabin
As I entered my newly refurbished Expedition Mini Suite, I felt immediately at home. The Scandinavian furnishings and thick grey ‘MS Fram’ blanket woven atop the plush double bed were giving cosy vibes, quiet luxury.
A welcome bottle of bubbles and snack jars extended the warm welcome, along with a stocked minibar; the first round is on HX for suite guests. A Nespresso machine meant my early morning caffeine fix was sorted.
Storage was generous, with a full wardrobe, plenty of hangers, and cupboards that swallowed the contents of my suitcase with room to spare.
The bathroom exceeded my expectations – in size, and with thoughtful shelving and blissful underfloor heating.
In-cabin recycling and a ‘green’ door tag to skip linen and towel changes underscored HX’s sustainability focus without feeling performative.
Dining
Beyond Svalbard itself, dining was a highlight. Across the two restaurants – Aune (the main eatery) and Lindstrøm (a 3-course fine dining experience) – the menus offered fresh and often local fare. Think smoky Arctic char, tender reindeer, plant-based options, and unapologetically decadent desserts – all beautifully presented.
Travelling with dietaries can be challenging, not so on MS Fram, where I dined like a queen. Executive Chef Thomas Zerdzinski credited his background in a Swiss health clinic for igniting his passion to deliver flavour-forward dishes, no matter what ingredients are omitted.
This ethos ensured I felt safe as I tucked into delicious crisp-topped fish pie, rich venison stew, and rich lamb koftas. Fellow dietary-inhibited guests reported feeling similarly well looked after.
Since late 2024, HX has been all-inclusive, though dining at Lindstrøm for non-suite guests incurs an additional cost. It’s worth it.
Between meals, snacks were always available, from the well-stocked cookie jar at the tea and coffee station to afternoon treats like cinnamon buns, waffles, and pancakes.
Thankfully, thermal gear is stretchy!
Service & crew
You can have a brilliant boat, classy rooms, and delicious cuisine, but the heart of the crew makes or breaks a journey.
HX has a reputation for attracting a skilled multinational crew, so I’m not sure why the expedition leaders surprised me with how contagious their cumulative knowledge was.
Ash could talk rock strata for hours (and make you care); Jane’s engaging storytelling brought Svalbard history to life; and the adventure guides had decades of experience with calm demeanours made me feel safe as we hiked across the polar bears’ land.
HX’s commitment to science includes inviting guest scientists to sail, run their projects, and share their findings in nightly talks. My inner nerd loved it.
It’s clear that HX values their staff as people, encouraging them to bring their personality to work. Many front-of-house crew have worked big ships but prefer the small-ship life for the guest rapport it allows.
Shout-outs to Thomas, Randy, and Derick in Lindstrøm and my can-do cabin attendant, Jelly-Ann. These, and many other interactions, shaped my expedition experience.
Amenities
If you’re after a whizzbang Broadway show or glitzy casino, expedition cruising isn’t it. In Svalbard, nature is the headline act, from swooping puffins, bobbing seals, and the brilliance of a blue-white glacier.
On MS Fram, there are three vantage points to take in the ‘show’: the wraparound decks on Decks five and seven, and the floor-to-ceiling Explorer Lounge (especially the high-back, bow-facing seats).
Evening ‘entertainment’ is not a cabaret act – though Expedition Leader Tomski was quite the comedian as he shared the next day’s plans – but impassioned talks from the onboard experts in the Lecture Hall (also streamed to cabins).
The brand-new Science Centre is MS Fram’s ‘whizzbang’, watching plankton under a state-of-the-art microscope, leafing through shelves of Arctic field guides, or quizzing scientists post-landing.
Aboard MS Fram, wellness is simple, with a sauna and two outdoor hot tubs for the post-hike or kayak thaw. I ignored the well-equipped gym, preferring daily hikes to walk off Lindstrøm’s spoils.
A small boutique and medical centre round out MS Fram’s amenities.
The verdict
I often heard, “I’m not a cruise person,” when I said I was going on an expedition cruise. “No, not that kind of cruise” was my response. Because expedition cruise culture is different.
With HX Expeditions, you see more, learn more, feel more, and connect with the heart of the destination. Your senses sharpen, perspective widens, and you become the kind of person who cares which kind of guillemot you’ve just spotted (who knew?). MS Fram delivers more than just comfort. It’s the place where I fell for Svalbard and expedition cruising itself.
I measure a good trip by the depth of the post-holiday blues, and after this one, I was glacier-blue. Which is to say: HX Expeditions and MS Fram turned out to be exactly my kind of adventure.
Have you read Zoe’s Svalbard review yet? Check it out here.
