The Don’t Forget Travel Group director Andrew Sullivan has just returned from Cambodia. Here, he updates us on what’s changed and what needs to go on your next Cambodia itinerary.
I watch the cow running straight for me. I am trying to decide if I should stare it down like Crocodile Dundee or turn and run like the skinny chickens around me.
They say your life flashes before your eyes in moments like these. I default to logistics and wonder how I ended up in a remote village kilometers from Siem Reap.
I am in Cambodia co-hosting a charity tour with my client and 40 of his paying participants. All witnesses to my looming demise.
But it turns out the cow is safely tethered on a rope so I’m not in any danger and I return to the group.
My client and I have been running these rural based charity tours for a few years now, but this is the first post-Covid tour and things have changed quite a bit. Here’s where Cambodia is at now.
Phnom Penh
Prior to Covid, Cambodia’s capital was a bit of a tourist afterthought (if it was thought about at all). Not so anymore. The city is cleaning up its act and there is a real vibe blanketing the city. While a lot of new hotels have been built, and new restaurants, cafes and bars seemed to have popped up, it still seems to have kept its Khmer identity.
The main reason for adding Phnom Penh into your itinerary is to visit the Killing Fields and the S21 Genocide Museum to learn more about the atrocities that were committed by Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge. Due to the current lack of tourists these sites are even more chilling.
Siem Reap
The country’s tourist mecca is taking a bit longer to recover. A lot of the hotels are on skeleton staff and many shops are still closed. Even the city’s famous nightlife destination, Pub Street, feels as though it is trying to recover from a hangover. Many venues are still closed, but each day a new one is opening up.
That said, now is the time to visit Angkor Wat. It is rare to visit one of the true wonders of the world and practically have it all to yourself. With no one around, you can imagine Angelina Jolie running around the ‘Tomb Raider Temple’ Ta Prohm when she wasn’t busy adopting children. Seriously, get there now before the hordes return.
Don’t forget to dress modestly – no bare shoulders or short shorts.
You’ll need a ‘Angkor Pass’ to gain access to the sites and a day pass costs US$20. You can get a three day pass for US$40. But that’s a lot of temples and there is a very real affliction called ‘temple fatigue’.
Travel hack: If you purchase your day pass late in the afternoon you can then use that pass to access some of sites to watch the sunset and then the pass will still be valid for all of the next day. Saves having to buy a more expensive pass if you want to get both the classic sunset and sunrise photos.
MONEY
Cambodia has been quick to adopt ‘tap & go’ payment methods. Your credit cards will be accepted at most hotels, restaurants, bars etc. But no-one seems to accept American Express.
Cambodia works on a dual currency system: Cambodian riel and US dollars. Just ask the price in the denomination you wish to pay, and they will tell you. It’s not unusual to pay in US dollars and receive change in Cambodian riel. But take only smaller notes as it is very hard to change anything larger than US$20.
Cambodians will not accept any US dollars that are ripped, torn or the old-style US bank notes.
ATMs are everywhere and dispense both riel and US dollars and while they do accept Australian credit cards, you’ll only be able to withdraw US dollars.
Beware: counterfeit US dollar notes in Cambodia are on the increase. Be vigilant with US dollar notes being given to you as change, and be watchful if your cash is being ‘counted’ out of sight as a switch-a-roo can take place where they say that you gave them a fake note.
VISAS
Australians require a tourist visa to enter Cambodia. This can be done online at https://www.evisa.gov.kh/ for US$36 or you can get a visa on arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports (among other locations) for US$30 (no processing fee).
The people of Cambodia are excited to have tourists back.
Andrew Sullivan is the director of The Don’t Forget Travel Group, a boutique travel agency specialising in custom trips to destinations all around the world. His team are seasoned travellers who love to share knowledge, experiences and tips to help you get the most out of your next holiday.
