When a chef the calibre of Luke Mangan gets involved in a new venture, food takes centre stage.
But for the first time, Mangan’s fine fare might take a back seat to a setting so spectacular and unique, it has the restauranteur declaring he’s the luckiest chef not just in Australia, but probably the world. And this from a guy who’s opened restaurants in Tokyo, Singapore and across multiple cruise ships.
The eatery is Luke’s Table at the Pylon Lookout, and the location is the Lookout level in the southeast pylon of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Ninety years ago, when the bridge first opened, Sydneysiders could hardly have imagined that one day there would be a restaurant some 30 metres above the roaring, or back then, quietly chugging, traffic. Then again, why wouldn’t you create a restaurant at the summit of a structure that affords one of the world’s most magnificent views?
As I climb the 200 steps within the pylon, guided by Bridgeclimb through museum artefacts and past souvenir stalls, I’ve worked up an appetite.
“Have an oyster, have some champagne,” Mangan says, as our group enters for the first-ever sitting at the new eatery. Just don’t call the Penfolds rose bubbly ‘sparkling wine’, because it’s the real French stuff, we’re told.
Within the small space, which almost feels like a bunker 87 metres above sea level, a communal table with high chairs seats a maximum of 20 guests as music from what appears to be Luke’s phone (or at least monitored by Mangan) adds to the ambience.
The view from the top
But its the views outside that draw the gushes from tonight’s diners. Beyond the doors, champagne flutes make way for phones, as guests snap photos in every direction: northward over the bridge; to the east, the Sydney Opera House and Harbour; to the south, Circular Quay and the CBD; and to the west, a setting sun that bathes Sydney’s meandering waterways in a golden glow.
Though gusty outside, a better, and more unique, restaurant setting would be hard to imagine.
Back inside and dinner awaits, but not before a few words by the man at the heart of the dining experience.
You may have just walked 200 stairs, Mangan says, but my team and I have walked “many many many more” to make this happen tonight.
Two years in the making, what started out as a simple text to Ali Cassim (Bridgeclimb’s head of marketing product and digital) about an opportunity ‘‘to help promote tourism and hospitality” was now a reality – despite the obvious logistical challenges.
While much of the food is prepared offsite, it’s busy but not manic in the “makeshift kitchen”, which sits above the stairwell.
And now for the food
Much of the first course of “amazing sashimi” (Hiramassa kingfish in sesame and dashi dressing) is delivered by Mangan himself, which speaks to the gravitas of the new venture.
A vegan alternative of watermelon sashimi is equally well received – and yes, works amazingly well.
Next up is a seared and poached Riverina beef fillet served with a mushroom purée and orange and wine sauce, while an exquisite ravioli is available as a plant-based option.
For dessert, Mangan offers up a soft meringue with passionfruit curd, berries and coconut anglaise, which is every bit as good as it sounds.
With Penfolds as the exclusive wine partner, each course is served with an equally impressive vino (with some select evenings even including their signature, Grange). Just don’t expect more than one glass per course, or getting down the multitude of stairs could prove hazardous.
And while the three-course set menu will change periodically, the quality of the cuisine, under Mangan’s curation, won’t. Nor will those views.
According to Bridgeclimb, who manage the experience, the dining concept is booked solidly for its initial run – to March 2023. However, exclusive bookings are still available for Sunday-Wednesday nights until early March. Further dates are to be announced later.
For more information, visit bridgeclimb.com.au
