Aussies don’t have to travel to the other side of the world to get a taste of France. And they needn’t fly 10 hours to Tahiti, or even longer to the Maldives, for a luxury overwater resort. Turns out they can get both in just over two hours from Sydney, as Mark Harada discovers, at the Doubletree by Hilton Noumea Ilot de Maître Resort in New Caledonia.
From the Noumea mainland, Ilot de Maître (translated Master Island) gleams like a mirage. But it’s nearer than you think.
If you look closely enough, through the collection of kiteboarders and wall of windsurfers on Anse Vata Bay, you may even make out the island resort’s overwater bungalows.
In fact, a mere 30-minute ferry ride from downtown Noumea brings the Doubletree within easy reach, whether for a day trip or – in my family’s case – several nights.
The arrival
As our boat approaches the small isle, what had been just a glimpse becomes a full view of what awaits: lots of sun, sea and sand. With an island this photogenic, there’ll be lots of photos too, as we start snapping pics from the moment we set foot on the pier. Check-in will have to wait a little…
At reception, the origin of my surname is immediately recognised. “Ah, Harada-sama”, says the staff member, who isn’t Japanese. It shouldn’t come as a shock as Japan is a vital visitor market for New Caledonia. But the friendly and attentive service does score points and adds to the warm welcome.
The room
Our abode is one of the resort’s King Beach Bungalows. True to its name, it’s literally right on the foreshore, offering nearly 180-degree water views and direct beach access. But it’s just as nice inside.
A large 36 square metres, the bungalow is wonderfully furnished – and even inspires my partner’s already creative mind.
Along with a king bed with 250-thread count sheets, there’s a sofa bed for our daughter (but one that’s big enough for two), and a small dining table, which is perfect for eating in and admiring those views.
Other features include free and surprisingly fast wifi, a 55-inch HD television, mini-refrigerator and tea and coffee facilities.
In the bathroom, there’s a beautiful standalone tub, rain shower and hand-held shower, and Crabtree Evelyn amenities. And like the rest of the bungalow, it’s also tastefully decorated.
Back outside, on the 13-sqm deck, there are sun loungers and a small dining space for al fresco eating.
Elsewhere, the resort offers garden bungalows, one and two-bedroom villas, and of course, its signature overwater bungalows, which if you’re lucky enough to stay in, give you direct water access by way of a mechanical stairway.
The food and drink
Each day begins with a buffet breakfast in the poolside Restaurant l’Escapade, which is better than I’d envisaged. Part French, part Asian, and part American, it offers everything from French pastries to salads – both vegetable and fruit – and even rice-based dishes. Omelettes seem popular, as do the hazelnut potatoes (pomme noisettes?). Then, of course, there’s the selection of cheeses and mini pancakes. Because who doesn’t love freshly cooked pancakes?
The island’s only real restaurant also offers a buffet lunch and dinner, which can be taken either outside or in the naturally cooled space inside. Not too far away, Beach Cafe La Boussole offers light snacks and beverages in a leafier setting, although seems to operate on reduced hours.
While the pool bar is closed for the duration of our trip, the Sunset Bar serves drinks by the pool and also provides a-la-carte meals (like burgers and paninis with fries) in between the main buffets.
Alternatively, resort guests can take advantage of the free return ferry rides to Port Moselle that run late into the evening and dine in any number of restaurants in Noumea, or even pick up supplies to take back to the island (baguettes and cheese are always a good idea).
The experiences
Predictably, water sports rule on Ilot de Maître. But while the island offers guests a range of water-based activities – from paddle-boarding and kitesurfing to even jet-skiing – the most enthralling experiences can be enjoyed with just a mask and snorkel. In warm waters, particularly under the overwater bungalows and walkways, guests can swim among an amazing array of fish, coral and other aquatic life.
However, the highlight of each day is snorkelling with the green sea turtles, which for us happens at around five every afternoon. And the beauty of swimming with turtles is the ease with which one can observe them, thanks to their slow (and graceful) movement. The island’s crystal-clear water helps too.
Elsewhere on the island, the two adjoining pools seem a hit, especially with the few kids (including ours) staying at the resort, while there’s also a gym, business centre, and even meeting rooms. Not that you’d want to be doing too much business here.
What else to do
In Noumea, there’s no shortage of things to do, but for a recreational AND educational experience, we recommend the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. Dedicated to the local Kanaks, and Melanesian cultures more broadly, the Centre is part gallery, part museum, and located on a pretty peninsula in a quiet part of Noumea. For only 1000CFP (around $13), it’s a real bargain too.
The details
Property: Doubletree by Hilton Noumea Ilot de Maître
Website: www.hilton.com/en/locations/new-caledonia-french/noumea
Check in/out: 3pm/11am
Number of rooms: 62
Price: King Beach Bungalows start from around AU$290 per night
Access: 30-minute ferry from Noumea, which is free for guests
Mark travelled as a guest of New Caledonia Tourism.
