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Travel review: Is winter on Rottnest worthwhile?

If you think Rottnest Island / Wadjemup is only a summer destination, think again. Zoe Macfarlane went in 2023, confirming: winter on Rotto is a vibe, people! The gorgeous beaches are empty, the daytime temps around 20 degrees, and it’s joey season, meaning tiny-weeny quokkas in their mama’s pouch! So is it worth making a winter getaway to Rottnest?

If you think Rottnest Island / Wadjemup is only a summer destination, think again. Zoe Macfarlane went in 2023, confirming: winter on Rotto is a vibe, people! The gorgeous beaches are empty, the daytime temps around 20 degrees, and it’s joey season, meaning tiny-weeny quokkas in their mama’s pouch! So is it worth making a winter getaway to Rottnest?

The only ‘off’ about Rottnest Island’s winter off-season is that people don’t think to go there! Not only is it still a fabulous place to visit in winter, but it comes with several perks.  

Using the flimsy excuse of breaking up the journey from Broome to the Gold Coast (after my Outback Spirit Kimberley adventure), I decided to spend 24 hours on Wadjemup. For research, obviously. 

Winter on the happiness isle  

Winter on Rottnest Island
Experience the place to yourself when you winter on Rottnest Island. © Zoe Macfarlane

Wadjemup translates to the place across the sea where the spirits lie. It has long held cultural importance to the Whadjuk Nyoongar people. 

It’s not only Rottnest’s incredible white-sand beaches, picture-perfect turquoise water, and quokka selfies that appeal. The island’s reef entices, too, as protects it from silt, big swells, and big teeth (sharks).  

While most of Rottnest’s annual two million visitors fill up the accommodation, cafés, and buses in the summer months, they’re missing out on the peace of the island in winter. The mild climate means most activities are doable in winter, just with way less people around you!

Perk #1: Baby quokkas 

Quokka
Saying hello to quokkas is a Rottnest Island highlight. © Zoe Macfarlane

Quokkas are a top reason to visit Rottnest. From August to November, there are extra perks: joey season!  

Watch every human melt in the presence of a smiling quokka mama and their tiny pouch baby. I saw several during my stay, from weeny ones shyly poking their head out, to the brave ones venturing out of the pouch.

Quokkas are what happens when life is without stress. Their title as the world happiest animal may be because these cat-sized macropods look like they’re smiling. Anthropomorphism aside, it’s also because the 12,000 quokkas that call Rottnest Island home have no natural predators to worry about. Nor vehicles, besides a few buses.

So, following quokkas rules, happiness is attained by moving to a remote island, ditching cars, and avoiding predatory people. I’m down, you in? 

Quokka
Joey season! © Zoe Macfarlane

Perk #2: Rottnest’s other residents 

Another winter perk? Whale season! While it’s officially from September to November, there were plenty of humpback sightings during my August visit.   

While I didn’t make it to Narrow Neck and the West End during my 24-hour Rotto mission, that’s where the 160 NZ fur seals that call the island home hang out.  

Several avian species are also attracted to the inland’s salt lakes and swamps, some even migrating from Siberia.  

Perk #3: Uncrowded hikes

Rottnest Island
More days on the island means more time at places like the dunes near Parakeet Bay. © Zoe Macfarlane

If you love exploring destinations on foot, Rottnest is a dream. Depending on time and interest, you can walk part or all of the Wadjemup Bidi.  This 45-kilometre trail is split into five sections.  

If you’re short on time, like me, hike and bike to maximise your visit. While the visitor centre recommended hiking part of the Gabbi Karniny Bidi inland lakes trail, I heeded the call of the ocean. I biked toGeordie Bay, then followed the coastal paths to Parakeet Bay.  

I had the trails to myself, enjoyed a sand dune romp, and dipped my feet into the Indian Ocean at Little Parakeet Bay. Heaven! 

Perk #4: Effortless biking 

Geordie Bay, Rottnest Island
Booking a bike and ferry package with Rottnest Express gives you access to more of the island. © Zoe Macfarlane

Do you need a stash of padded Lycra shorts at home to enjoy biking around Rottnest Island? Nope! Renting a bike is great for all fitness levels as the highest point, Wadjemup Lighthouse, is only 45 metres above sea level.

I got my rental bike (and helmet) as I disembarked the Rottnest Express, it’s super convenient. It’s goes back when you do, handed it at the port as you embark for the return ferry to the mainland. Biking in winter means less sweat to worry about, plus bike line to collect and return is shorter, too.  

As I was biking North Rottnest, I reflected on the alignment of pedal power to the islands eco-friendly, sustainably focused ethos, too. It felt good! 

Perk #5: Discover more

Discover Rottnest Island Tour
Get your bearings and learn more about Wadjemup on the Discover Rottnest tour. ©Rottnest Express

If hikes and bikes are too strenuous, there’s always the bus – and it’s half empty in winter! If you’re using it just to get around, hop on (and off) a Quokka Coach.

If you’re looking to discover more about the island, however, book a spot on the Discover Rottnest Island bus tour for a 90-minute guided tour. Passing Rottnest’s main sights with commentary proved a brilliant way to get my bearings without breaking a sweat. 

Thanks to guide Sophie, I learnt there are 63 beaches, that Rottnest uses 45% renewable energy, and there are only 11 children at the school. Oh, and that quokkas can eject their joey at predators to escape. There are other facts, of course, but you’ll have to go to find those out.  

Where to stay  

Esplanade Hotel Fremantle by Rydges
Enjoy Fremantle’s heritage vibes here. © Esplanade Hotel Fremantle by Rydges

If you’re short on time or cramming a few WA sights into your vacay, use Fremantle as your Rottnest day trip base.

Stay at the lovely heritage-listed Esplanade Hotel Fremantle by Rydges, and you can reach Rottnest in record time (under 45 minutes if you time it right). It’s only a 12-minute walk to the port, and you can store your luggage. Read my hotel review here.

Discovery Resorts Rottnest Island
It’s even easier to stay and play on Rottnest during the winter months. © Discovery Resorts Rottnest Island

Wintering on Rottie means accommodation is easier to snag, and that includes a stay at the fabulous Discovery Resorts Rottnest Island.

Located at the island’s famous sunset (and cocktail) spot, Pinky’s Beach, comfy safari-style tents await. It’s only a 10-minute walk or quick ride from the dock, and the ferry company drop off your luggage.

Read about my Discovery Resorts Rottnest Island stay here.  

The deets

Rottnest Express
I took the 30-minute Rottnest Express service from Fremantle. © Rottnest Express

While you could once walk to this 19 km2 slice of paradise, some 6,500 years ago, you’ll now hop on the Rottnest Express, the island’s most spacious ferry. It’s only 30 minutes from Fremantle (and 90 minutes from Perth) with five daily departures in winter.

Keen to discover more ways to enjoy a blissful Rottnest winter getaway? Head here