This is expedition cruising, but not necessarily as you know it. If adventure and luxury had a baby, it might be Quark Expeditions. Karryon’s Dani Tuffield ventures to the end of the world for an experience like no other.
Anyone who has been to Antarctica will understand when I say that it is difficult to find the words to describe the experience. Ineffable is probably the most apt, which means that it is too great to be expressed in words. My pictures, whilst beautiful and an excellent visual representation, still cannot go anywhere near capturing what it means to see, hear and walk in Antarctica.
While an experience that is difficult to describe may not sound like the best premise for this story, there is nothing complicated when it comes to capturing all that Quark Expeditions offers on this voyage – the 12-day Antarctic Explorer: Discovering the 7th Continent itinerary.
Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine ship
First up, let’s meet the ship that is going to deliver me safely across the fabled Drake Passage, taking me and 177 other lucky guests to the seventh Continent.
Ultramarine is designed specifically for polar exploration. With a capacity of under 199 guests, Quark is allowed to strictly limit the number of people landing anywhere in Antarctica at one time to 100—with one group landing and one group on zodiacs or other seacraft.
It has advanced new technology for ease of crossing the tricky Drake Passage, plus its size allows it to get into the smaller bays and other areas in and around Antarctica. Oh, and yes, it has two helicopters onboard for flightseeing when you are at your destination. This unique feature was definitely a key selling point when chatting with many guests onboard.
Once onboard, I was surprised at how spacious my balcony suite room was, particularly the bathrooms and storage room. It is a very comfortable space for the (slightly) quieter to-and-from journey time.
Crossing the Drake Passage
I was very lucky, and my Drake Passage crossing on our way over was relatively mild. By mild, I mean the swells were still up to three metres, but I’m told that is a very good option as they can sometimes reach over twice that size.
The ship’s latest technology features make the journey smoother than you might think. I was a little nervous about the crossing, but after doing it, I wasn’t at all anxious about the return, even if it wasn’t as smooth.
My pro-tip here is to take medication with you and have it as a preventative on the way over. As always, prevention is easier than the cure. Having said that, the ship’s medical team was amazing and sorted out anyone who was feeling sick.
It’s a two-day crossing, and the team and crew keep you busy and entertained with lectures, safety briefings, meals, meals, and more meals. My favourite discovery onboard is the beautiful spa and gym with floor-to-ceiling windows, including the beautiful Scandinavian wooden sauna.
Pro tip: Have your clients book any spa treatments they want early, as they tend to be snapped up quickly.
Discovering Antarctica
The day we woke up and were in Antarctica, I started to get stuck for words. It is a feeling that you have to experience. Antarctica is a mythical place that many may never visit. It is a privileged place reserved for explorers and adventurers whose names you grew up learning about, such as Scott, Amundsen, Shackleton Mawson – and now me!
Cliché perhaps, but I am pinching myself. Often. The first discovery trip out on the zodiac is magical. You are beside yourself with excitement at just being here, let alone seeing the penguins, seals, and whales. We even saw orcas on our first morning out. I took 100 photos within 10-15 minutes. Every moment feels precious.
We spent five days in Antarctica, and I cannot say what my favourite part was, as every experience was unique and incredible. I could never tire of watching the penguins jump out of the sea and waddle up to their colonies, creating their penguin highways in the snow.
I loved hiking the mountains and walking along the shorelines. The zodiac trips introduced us to so much varying sea life and also to the captivating world of iceberg art. The colours, shapes, sizes, and textures of them were awe-inspiring. I was very amused to learn that if one is under five metres, it is called a bergy bit.
On our last day, we got up over the continent in the helicopter flyover, which was breathtaking as we flew over glaciers and mountain ranges. Then, we ventured underneath the continent with a legendary polar plunge. Yes, it is freezing, but I’m so happy that I did it; I even got a badge. Out of 177 of us onboard, there were 110 of us did it.
My pro tip: advise your clients to book ahead for extra excursions like kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, etc. They can still book once onboard, but they may miss out.
Service and vibe
The staff and crew onboard were fantastic, and that definitely makes or breaks a destination like Antarctica. The expedition crew on Quark has such a depth of knowledge, with marine biologists, geologists, photographers, historians, and other experts making up the team.
In addition to their incredible insights and information, they are also very funny, outgoing, and friendly. The whole team onboard has been fantastic, from the hotel and catering staff to the engineers and even the Captain, who has the bridge open every day so guests can chat with him. It has been a real standout for me and definitely a massive part of what makes this trip so memorable.
The other thing I absolutely loved is the communal and convivial vibe with the other guests. We have had a shared experience, and it brings people together. The restaurants are set up for sharing meals with other guests or dining alone if you prefer. I have sat with so many lovely people and had the most entertaining conversations.
The demographic of the passengers is so broad—honeymooners, big birthday celebrations from a 40th to a 70th, multigenerational family trips, solo passengers, etc. I think it is possibly one of the best solo experiences for travel as you really only need to be alone if and when you choose. I definitely never felt lonely or wanted company. Quark Expeditions has a couple of options for solo travellers with either specific solo or shared twin cabins.
As I sit in the Panorama lounge, surrounded by new friends on Ultramarine on my way back to the real world, my advice to anyone on the fence or waiting to go later in life is don’t hesitate and don’t wait. Invest in this feeling of pure wonder and joy. Invest in the sense of being an explorer.
Thank you, Quark Expeditions, and thank you to all of my fellow explorers for sharing this trip of a lifetime with me. We will forever be changed by this experience.
Quark Expeditions has more than 40 departures to Antarctica for the 2025/26 season with a range of itineraries starting from 8 days up to 23 days. There is a trip for everyone!
For more information visit quarkexpeditions.com
The writer was a guest of Quark Expeditions.
