HX’s innovative hybrid-powered expedition ship, named after the legendary Norwegian explorer, provides a fun, stimulating exploration experience for adventure-loving travellers. Karryon Luxury joins the ship for a 10-day voyage in Alaska – here’s our verdict.
On embarking the ship at Vancouver’s striking Canada Place cruise terminal, it’s quite an eye-opener to walk straight into the buzzy Science Center on Deck 6. Microscopes, big touch screens, cases displaying skeletons of mammals and birds, and benches loaded with laboratory equipment reveal what we discover during our Alaska voyage is the heart of the HX Expeditions experience. Even the lift well between Decks 3 and 10 is stunning, featuring a massive LED screen showing inspiring images of past expeditions.
After checking in to our spacious balcony suite on Deck 8 – where we find a welcome bottle of champagne and canapes, our blue HX jackets and refillable water bottles – my cruise buddy Debby and I do a quick recce of the ship. Then it’s time for the safety drill and drinks with the media group in the Explorer lounge and bar. While we’re enjoying the first of several memorable evenings at Lindstrøm restaurant, the ship slips away from the dock so quietly we hardly realise we’re sailing.
Suites and staterooms
MS Roald Amundsen accommodates a maximum of 490 guests in 265 suites and staterooms across several different categories. All are outside and 50 per cent have private balconies. Starting at the top, there are six types of Expedition Suites, on Decks 7, 8 and 9. The most luxurious are corner balcony suites, which range in size from 20sqm to 48sqm for up to four people. Some have hot tubs on the balcony, and all suites have tea and coffee-making facilities (a big plus), pre-stocked minibar, a free laundry service and complimentary meals in Lindstrøm. Our category ME (28sqm) Expedition Suite is perfect for the two of us and its capacious balcony is a great spot for viewing Alaska’s spectacular scenery.
There are six types of Arctic Superior staterooms, including accessible staterooms, ranging from 15sqm to 27sqm. Some have balconies and sofa beds and all have minibars (charges apply) and tea and coffee-making facilities. Polar Outside staterooms have the same facilities as Arctic Superiors but have windows instead of balconies.
The décor throughout the suites and staterooms is elegantly understated. Bathrooms have heated floors and are stocked with products by Norwegian brand Arctic Pure – remember to bring a shower cap if you need one because single-use plastic items were banned across the fleet in 2018.
Wining and dining
MS Roald Amundsen has three distinct dining spaces: fine dining at Lindstrøm, the main dining room Aune and the smaller, more casual Fredheim. Each venue opens for breakfast, lunch and dinner at different times – the HX app lists these and daily menus.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner at Lindstrøm are complimentary for Expedition Suite guests, and it’s open to non-suite guests for dinner, based on availability, for a 35 euro cover charge. Breakfast and lunch at Aune and Fredheim are buffet style and dinner is typically à la carte. You can also order takeaway from Fredheim.
The cuisine and service in all three restaurants are excellent. Lindstrøm’s menus feature Scandinavian-style dishes with a modern twist, with seafood taking a starring role along with beautifully presented beef, lamb, pork and imaginative vegetarian options. Aune offers a terrific variety of fresh, healthy dishes, while Fredheim serves comfort food and snacks at lunch and themed dinners for two nights in a row in two sittings. Our group votes Indian night the voyage winner.
House wines, beer and soft drinks are complimentary for all guests, with meals and at the two bars; premium beverages are complimentary for suite guests. Like all the public areas on MS Roald Amundsen, the Explorer lounge and bar is incredibly light and spacious, with floor to ceiling windows and a variety of comfortable seating arrangements. Special events such as the captain’s welcome and farewell evenings, the crew band night and cultural presentations are held in the lounge; it’s also a peaceful retreat during the day. The Pool bar on Deck 10 is open when weather permits.
Under the microscope
The Science Center is where the 30-strong expedition team hangs out when not taking guests out on daily zodiac cruises. These highly talented individuals present lectures on everything from seabirds to marine mammals, bears and Alaska’s history; conduct workshops on findings from science boat trips; host wildlife-spotting sessions on the observation decks; and introduce us to a range of global citizen science projects we can join onboard and continue at home.
The centre also houses a small library that includes contemporary novels as well as learned journals, several lecture theatres and flexible spaces for workshops. MS Roald Amundsen’s expedition gear includes 17 zodiacs, 20 hard-shell sea kayaks including four one-seaters, and 30 Discovery (inflatable) kayaks, which are ideal for beginners and shorter excursions.
Spa and Wellness
The ship has a large, well-equipped gym, sauna with ocean views and a spa/wellness centre that offers a range of face, scalp and body treatments starting from 65 euros for 25 minutes. There are two hot tubs and an aft infinity pool on Deck 10 and a running track and outdoor gym equipment on Deck 11.
The verdict
MS Roald Amundsen is the first HX ship I’ve been lucky enough to sail on, and I hope it won’t be the last! She is larger than most expedition vessels, so her public areas and suites are exceptionally spacious. The Scandi-style décor uses plenty of natural materials accented by attractive artworks throughout.
The focus on science and conservation is impressive at all levels – in lectures (most of which can be streamed to your stateroom), in the expertise and friendliness of the expedition team, and on the daily zodiac and science boat trips.
While most would agree that the HX app needs some streamlining it does cut down the use of paper; and new excursions are priced on the high side for what is offered. Both are works in progress.
As the captain, hotel manager and expedition leader all told me independently, she is a happy ship – one that suits adventure-loving multi-gen groups, solos and couples.
MS Roald Amundsen fast facts
Built in Norway, MS Roald Amundsen is the first of two hybrid ships in HX Expeditions’ fleet (her nearly identical sister MS Fridtjof Nansen followed in 2020). Emissions are cut by using a battery-hybrid propulsion system that functions much like a plug-in hybrid electric car. The system reduces fuel consumption and emissions by combining highly efficient diesel engines with large battery packs to optimise power distribution, reducing fuel consumption and emissions by 20 per cent.
Inaugural voyage: 3 July 2019.
Capacity: 490 guests, crew: 150-175; on this cruise 278 guests, 170 crew.
Where she sails: Antarctica, Alaska, Northwest Passage, Greenland, Arctic Canada, South America.
For more information, visit HX Expeditions
Writer Sally Macmillan travelled as a guest of HX Expeditions.
