When MonoNeon walked out on stage for Memphis Tourism’s annual travel trade event dressed in something resembling a technicolour patchwork quilt, complete with neon yellow mesh balaclava and oversized visor glasses, many guests were taken aback. When the Grammy-winning bassist and his band launched into their experimental funk fusion set, the sense of bewilderment only grew. Is this a Memphis event? Or are we here for New York City or Portland, where avant-garde is more de rigueur?
On an overcast autumnal night, I’m at Mary’s Underground in downtown Sydney. It used to be called The Basement, and it’s “steeped in musical history”, says Memphis Tourism Australia/New Zealand director Chris Ingram.
“This venue here is Memphis. It’s gritty. It’s been around for a long time… just like Memphis,” he tells guests at the event, a highlight on the travel trade events calendar.
“I was there [in Memphis] just last week. I was in BB King’s bar – and it was literally the same vibes.”
But the musical vibe is a little different tonight. Perhaps not what you’d expect from Memphis.
One travel advisor tells me, at the back of the dimly lit room, that MonoNeon and this brand of experimental music aren’t what she thinks of when she imagines Memphis. She points to a scarf adorned with Elvis faces to highlight her point.
“And what’s with the mask?” she asks me. “Do you like this?” Actually, I do. But I get it mightn’t be for everyone, even for some of those at a Memphis Tourism event.
Louder than legacy
Here’s the thing… if you think Memphis is just about its legacy music, you’ve got it all wrong. Well, partly wrong; blues, soul and rock n roll are still the city’s lifeblood (the town lays claim to being the home of all three).
But a city of Memphis’ renown didn’t get to where it is by staying still. Walking in Memphis? This town runs – and it earned its reputation through innovation.
“We don’t just rely on legacy. We don’t stand still,” Ingram tells me after the show, which, by the way, was electric.
“People think that it’s an old historical music city, but it is still innovating today. And [it’s great] to have people like Norah Jones in Memphis [recording at Royal Studios]… we had RiverBeat [music festival featuring DJs, hip-hop, alt-Americana and more] last weekend with Wu Tang Clan.”
Then of course, there’s MonoNeon, who Flea calls “the greatest f**king electric bass player“. The Memphis bassist was one of the last musicians to collaborate with Prince and, reflecting his musical range, he’s also worked with artists including Mavis Staples, George Clinton and Bon Iver, among many others.
“Memphis is about music, and we very much lead with our brand,” Chris tells guests on the evening, which precedes a similar show at The Toff in Melbourne and a smaller VIP event at the new Memphis Blues & Soul Bar at the Blues on Broadbeach Festival Precinct.
“We don’t stand up and talk about all the rational benefits to you sending clients or people to Memphis, because it’s a highly irrational place.” What is clear when you get to Memphis, however, is just how hard this city rocks.
“I think it surprises people when they go to a club like BB King’s or Blues City Cafe or Rum Boogie… I think they’re flawed by the talent; these people are at the coalface of music. These aren’t the stars. These are session musicians,” he tells me.
“I took a whole lot of agents to Memphis last week… we went to BB King’s, and they were home at three in the morning. They were just blown away by the music.”
Ingram recommends at least three nights in the Tennessee town. Nights being the operative word.
“If you’ve got clients that are thinking about iconic musical cities, this is the place to send them. There are a lot of other places that… claim to be the place to go, but this is the real deal. It’s Elvis, it’s blues music, and it’s still innovating today.”
So whether you’re into more traditional tunes or progressive sounds, there’s bound to be a venue in Memphis that’ll draw you in.
“And you’re always going to run into someone [you know] in Memphis.” Although they may be hidden under a neon balaclava.
“No one can accuse Memphis of being boring,” Chris adds.
Partnership power
Along with Memphis Tourism, tonight’s event is supported by United Airlines, which is celebrating 40 years of flying to Sydney in 2026.
Speaking to guests, United Airlines National Account Manager (Australia) Dee Parkes-Finch talks about the carrier’s connections to Memphis – via multiple one-stop routes from Australia – and even teases a possible debut of the airline’s “completely redesigned 787 Dreamliner”, which includes United’s new Polaris Elevate product.
“It’s basically full of premium product, with 52 economy seats on the whole aircraft,” she says.
“So we’re hoping to see that very soon in Australia… I really would like to see that for Christmas.”
Another partner is Globus Family of Brands (GFOB), which offers a range of tours and experiences in the city, Tennessee and beyond through its Globus and Cosmos brands.
But Memphis clearly holds a special place in GFOB’s line-up of trips, which include visits to the Civil Rights Museum, the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, and the nearby Tina Turner Museum.
“It’s such a cool city. There’s just so much music, so much soul. Beale Street, it’s incredible. You’ve got Sun City… Elvis Presley, Graceland,” GFOB business development manager Matthew Beggs tells guests.
“This is just the coolest place.”
Keep an open mind to musos like MonoNeon, and it could be the most surprising too.
