Destination Canada Radical Ambassador Georgia Bantoft returns to Canada with fresh eyes in this reflective edition of Canada Field Notes. Journeying from Vancouver to the Okanagan Valley and north to Yellowknife, she uncovers a richer, more complex portrait of the country, one shaped not only by landscapes, but by local stories, cultural insight and the moments in between.
The bus ride had been silent. It seemed the further we drove, the darker and quieter everything became. Everybody was fixed on the night sky, trying to catch a glimpse of movement. It was our first night in Yellowknife, the seven of us waited with quiet anticipation, sharing our hopes about seeing the northern lights. About ten minutes from base camp, we noticed faint, white ribbons slowly dancing between the stars. We thought we’d struck gold. I pulled up the camera on my phone when suddenly the white ribbons transformed into vibrant colours. There it was. The Aurora Borealis. Hushed whispers filled the bus as if talking aloud might scare them off.
Seeing everyone looking up at the sky, so present in the moment, changed something in me. For some of our group, it was the first time seeing the lights. Fortunately for me, it was my second. But this time it felt different. Standing out in the cold, in one of the most remote parts of Canada, made me realise that everything I knew about Canada was only one side of it.
The Canada I already knew
The funny part is, Canada isn’t new to me. I’d lived in Whistler for almost two years and I thought, at the time, it meant I understood the essence of Canada. I had tried poutine, successfully took part in après and acclimatised to the winter chills. It hadn’t occurred to me that beyond the Whistler mountains, there was a more rugged, raw version of Canada waiting to be discovered.
My version of Canada was shaped by my time in Whistler with a handful of day trips to Vancouver in between. I thought I was living like a true Canadian. My lifestyle revolved around the mountains, social activities and building a sense of community with other foreign travellers. It felt like being in your own world, easy enough to slot into and even easier not to challenge. Being in the bubble was so comforting but it took leaving to realise that the confinement really hindered my perspective on Canada as a whole. Since I immersed myself in living in Canada for a long stretch of time, I didn’t believe I was missing out on anything. I hadn’t noticed that I had put the entire country in a box based on one town. Coming back to Canada as a traveller felt like seeing the destination with a set of new eyes.
Meeting Canada again
This time, my experience stretched beyond one place. From Vancouver to the Okanagan Valley and even up north in Yellowknife; each place and interaction made me question my preconceived notions.
Vancouver reflected the Canada I had grown to love. The bustling city surrounded by the sea and snow-capped mountains welcomed me back like a hug from an old friend. There was a familiarity in watching cyclists pass, walking across Capilano Suspension Bridge, taking in the skyline and appreciating the active lifestyle woven into everyday life. Even after my previous visits to the city, I was still able to tick off bucket list adventures such as seeing my first brown bear. Vancouver offers an incredible highlight reel; a version of Canada that is accessible, curated and checks off the obvious boxes but I craved more. I didn’t want to recreate memories from the past. I wanted to forge new experiences in unfamiliar places.
Canada marked me. Literally.
It was in the Okanagan Valley that I started to experience a slowed-down version of Canada. My biggest takeaway from the region was that it encouraged you to lean into the unplanned. Some of the best, most permanent moments from the trip came from spontaneous side quests and unexpected conversations. The pine tree now tattooed on the back of my leg from our impromptu night out is testament of that.
What was at first a silly ‘imagine if’ suddenly turned into Teagan enthusiastically announcing, “Don’t Look Down Tattoos can fit us all in at 9pm!” I never knew what was around the corner, much like the very essence of Kelowna. Here I was, in the waiting room of the parlour, thinking that getting a tattoo with eight near-strangers was out of character for me but maybe it was Canada enticing me to walk on the wild side. After all, the country does have that effect on you. It also has the power to spark moments of deep reflection.
Canada, deeper
As a visitor to Canada, you are met with a calmer, relaxed lifestyle upon arrival. The opportunity to talk to locals, like Jennay from Paynter’s Fruit Market, who grew up in Kelowna versus the typical tourists you encounter felt made the place feel real. Jennay’s story of working within her family’s business was relatable for me. That was something we had in common. It was one of the first moments of the trip where the honest Canadian lifestyle was tangible. I appreciated the fact that nothing felt hurried. Moving at your own pace naturally occurred and it didn’t feel forced or polished.
Okanagan Valley allowed us to mix nature activities with culinary lunches paired with world-renowned wines and ciders. There was also a strong sense of pride the locals had for sharing their knowledge about the indigenous culture; giving us a deeper understanding of the destination. Greg from Moccasin Trails shared with us the story behind the National Truth and Reconciliation Day and its significance in not just Indigenous history but Canada’s as a whole. I was moved to tears. Not once have I ever been so touched by an experience abroad before. Personally, I don’t think I would have been exposed to this in larger towns, especially on my own. This proved to me that the real Canada isn’t just its landscapes but the people and stories located within.
Yellowknife, pure Canada
By the time I reached Yellowknife, the shift in my thinking became undeniable. I had never travelled to a place that felt so untouched before. It was like tapping into Canada in its purest form. Seeing Canada so stripped-back made me realise I didn’t know this kind of quietness existed here. Wide open spaces were at every turn, provoking you to seek out adventure. It humbled me, leaving me to absorb the quiet and take in what was in front of me. The town makes me think of the saying ‘come as you are’ because you are inspired to present yourself, open up to possibilities, the same way the destination does.
We only saw the northern lights on our first night in Yellowknife however, waiting in the dark on our second and third night felt like Canada was being vulnerable with us. It wasn’t always picture perfect and it made the first night feel that much more special.
What interested me the most was that despite the town’s remote location, the connections felt stronger than anywhere else. Locals cared and did so deeply. Nothing was inconvenient and the people made it feel like you had all the time in the world. Yellowknife didn’t have a façade to hide behind, making it distinctly unique to any other place I’ve visited before.
A lesson learned
It was at the end of the trip that the whole picture came into focus. Canada felt so real because each place stood strongly on its own. Instead of conforming to a single idea, the different regions presented themselves just as they are. Nothing more. Nothing less. Places that couldn’t be replicated; much like people, each region held its own individuality from province to province. There is a multifaceted nature about Canada which rewards travellers who scratch further than the surface. To create a summary of the country determined by one place seems unfair upon reflection. That’s a mistake I will never make again.
It also made me rethink how Canada is often perceived as a destination. Canada is not a one-trip destination. By choosing to go to various provinces and towns, you find hidden gems and uncover the in between moments which ultimately enhance the highlights. The regions are so vastly different from each other that you really need a slower paced itinerary with 2-3 different regions to truly gather a sense of the real Canada.
Looking back, it was silly that I would draw down my experience in Canada by one place. While my prior version of Canada isn’t wrong or inauthentic, it was only one side of the destination and can’t be used to define Canada as a whole. It has layers. A country that reveals itself over time and allows you to appreciate the contrast between places more. The ‘real’ Canada is found between the highlights; through interactions with people, the diverse landscapes and mosaic history, unveiling Canada to its core. You don’t just arrive and see it. You uncover it naturally, piece by piece.
